Karat gold is ancient, highly treasured and rooted in civilization since it was discovered. As a jewelry designer, this rich metal starts out the same across every jeweler’s bench, however the final product is quite different. Every maker puts their own vision, style and technique into creating a piece of jewelry that is a reflection of their passion. Some designers use special hammers, drills and even tools they’ve rigged up themselves. Everyone’s experience and path to being a maker is incredibly different, as is their work. They’re story has been shaped and molded just as the karat gold they work with is, overtime becoming more and more defined.
I love learning about this path; each jewelry designer has such an interesting story and contagious love for what they do. Teaming up with May Is Gold Month to bring you these special stories and glimpse into each creative’s mind is something I look forward to every year! I’ve interviewed some really talented makers over the course of a few years and was excited to choose six new makers. Hope you enjoy each designer’s take on using karat gold in their work and why they enjoy working with this prized metal.
WWAKE
How is karat gold important in your work?
If you know me, I’m really interested in providing deep, positive, impact with the communities at the source of our materials as we grow as a business. Since we use gold in all of our products, this is where we can really make a difference! Last year we transitioned all new WWAKE Futures engagement rings to use Fairmined gold from Colombia, which provides extra support to our mining communities’ well being. It’s been a long time coming, but will definitely help us make impact! Pictured here, you can see us working on one of our newest Futures rings with reclaimed diamonds.
Why do you like working with karat gold?
WWAKE is inspired by our natural materials, and gold is one of those spiritual materials that is at once grounding – being an element from the earth that is rooted in the history of mankind – and aspirational – having always symbolized a connection to wealth, the gods, and the afterlife. I like to think of my design process as elemental – so, really, WWAKE all starts with the gold.
Learn more about WWAKE here.
ALINA ABEGG
How is karat gold important in your work?
I want to create pieces that will adorn, endure and be treasured over time, so my most favoured element is 18kt yellow or rose gold – paired with precious multi-coloured gemstones. The permanent, beautiful and precious nature of gold clearly plays a role in my creative work but I also think it’s important that this is not the only filter for my decision-making process. When I started my company in 2016, knowing of the devastating environmental impact and socio-economic consequences the gold mining industry has worldwide, it was my personal concern to choose a manufacturer and supplier according to three main criteria: quality, transparency and social responsibility.
I ended up picking Pforzheim, Germany, a small town known as the “Golden City” that looks back on a long tradition in the watch and jewellery making industry. Here, all Alina Abegg Jewels are handmade and produced by a trusted partner that recovers gold from secondary materials and follows state-of-the-art standards around sustainable precious metal recycling.
Why do you like working with karat gold?
Today, as in ancient times, gold continues to have a universal appeal to humans – and I’m no exception (little fun fact: I even named my beloved french bulldog ‘Nugget’)! Gold is obviously a symbolic vessel of value, prestige and power, but to me personally, this metal probably has such an intrinsic appeal because of its affinity to the sun. Many cultures have imagined gold to be the spirit of the sun manifested on earth and have seen it as the eternal source from which all human energy is derived. I have always been very intrigued by astrology, so when working with this precious metal it inspires me that the sun, as an astrological symbol, also represents our creative ability and a sense of pride in what we do.
Learn more about Alina Abegg Jewels here.
ANDY LIF
How is karat gold important in your work?
Gold allows me the greatest freedom to express my craft. Early in my career, I was creating mostly larger scale adornments in Bronze, Silver and Steel. Eventually, custom requests for engagement rings and bespoke designs in gold started to come in. I found that with gold I was able to apply all of my larger scale ideas on a smaller scale. I am especially inclined towards the rich hues of 18k or higher European alloys. With jewelry comes romance and the glow of 18k balances perfectly with the vibrant colors of my plique-à-jour enamel and colored gemstones. This balancing of palette creates a timeless color that is complementary to every skin tone.
Why do you like working with karat gold?
Working with gold really is a dance, it’s soft and pliable and with the slightest change in your file or the pressure of your wrist, you can get it to do what you want it to do. Whether in the process of melting, carving or treating it to give it a different luster, it’s magical! When I was living in Italy my appreciation for gold deepened. The Italian alloy process is done with such care and precision, which results in a more even color and consistency. It’s for that reason that the majority of my current collection is crafted in 18k Italian gold.
Learn more about Andy Lif here.
BROOKE GREGSON
How is karat gold important in your work?
Gold is an incredibly important metal for my work as it It has allowed me to create so many unique finishes and textures which has helped to define my brand. I can credit gold for the success of my first collection where I was able to mimic the textural and glowing quality of the moon’s surface through a special gold finish. Gold’s warmth and luxuriousness has the ability to offer those same qualities to the wearer and the stones that it frames while also being the most favored metal for the expert metalsmiths and engravers who I work with.
Why do you like working with karat gold?
I love working with gold because it can take on so many different textures and finishes yet never loses its precious quality. As a former textile designer I am constantly playing with the finish of Gold through collaboration with metalsmiths and engravers who focus on more traditional and highly skilled techniques. As most of my work is not cast, gold is much easier to hand forge than other metals as it has the perfect balance of malleability and strength. Gold has also given an equality to the precious and semi precious stones that I work with and offers an overall luxuriousness to any gemstone or material. I feel lucky to have the opportunity to use Gold as my main metal in all of my collections!
Learn more about Brooke Gregson here.
ALEX SEPKUS
Gold is 95% of all of Alex’s work. It takes textures, highlights and oxides, which are defining features of his work, better than most other metals and really showcases the detailed carvings in Alex’s design. No other metal behaves like gold and depending on the alloy you can do so much to its the structure and surface treatments. The qualities of gold have nothing to do with its monetary value and everything to do with its visual warmth and tactile characteristics.
Learn more about Alex Sepkus here.
MARIA BEAULIEU
How is karat gold important in your work?
It’s everything for me. I work in 18k yellow or green gold 99% of the time. I hand make chain in different thicknesses of gold wire. I cast the largest link in 18k green gold, as seen on my wrist. My rings are mostly 18k Green gold. Some of my rings are either 18k or 14k pink gold. I’ve been hand making this chain since 1999. 20 years! I can never stop making it and can never make enough of them. It’s my signature chain that pairs with my stone pendants that I make bezel settings for.
Why do you like working with karat gold?
I’ve been working in gold since 1994. I’ve always loved the weight of it, the different colors that it comes in. I used to work for a jeweler who used 10-22k gold and in many colors, pink, green, yellow and white. I was always so amazed at how different it was working with 10k vs 22k. One day I did a special order hoop earring in 14k pink that was hammered out of sheet metal. It was not so easy to work with but, the end result was so beautiful. I admired it so much my boss gave me a pair for my birthday. Then there was a special order for the same earrings in 14k white gold. Also a challenge but, somehow the gold did what I wanted it to. Totally different hammering that metal into the shape needed. I told my boss about the difference and how wowed I was by both. He gave me a hand hammered bracelet out of white gold for Christmas that year. I hope to be making jewelry out of gold for the rest of my life. I don’t ever want to retire. Slow down yes, retire no way!
Learn more about Maria Beaulieu here.
This sponsored post was brought to you in collaboration with May Is Gold Month.
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