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Education & Advice

How to Decipher Gold Markings

Those of you who are interested in treasure hunting on your own might need to know what the gold hallmark stamps mean.  It may be confusing at first, but this quick guide will help you out.  The first essential you need to invest in is a jeweler's loupe--a 30 x 21 mm is what I use.  This will allow you to get an up-and-close look at the stones (to look for any chips or at the clarity) and the prongs (hopefully they are not worn).  Next, check out the hallmark.  The guide below will help you decipher what that stamp means: 375   =   9k 417   =   10k 583   =   14k  585   =   14k 750   =   18k 834   =   20k 875   =   21k 917   =   22k The 3-digit number hallmark is stamped on a piece of jewelry of European origin.  Above are the North American equivalents.  Some hallmarks that indicate that gold is not real, not pure are: 10kGF (meaning gold filled), 18k HGP or 18k HGE (meaning heavy gold plate/electroplate). Above are some of the regional markings for several European nations. Read More

Education & Advice

Jewelry Time Periods: Edwardian Period

King Edward VII took the throne, which began the Edwardian Period in 1901 and lasted until around 1915, around the start of the first World War.  During this time, fashion and opulence were the forefront of society.  Women were as feminine as possible, outfitted with delicate layers of feathers, bows, lace and silk.  Queen Alexandra was iconic.  She often wore many strands of pearls and other necklaces all layered together, as illustrated in the picture below.  Progress made in gem cutting made triangles, baguettes and trapeze shapes new and interesting.  This time in history marked England as a global, dominant force, with the rich living in extravagance.  The start of World War I made for a quick end to this lavish era of a carefree spirit.  Precious metals became scarce, while many people hid away their jewels in vaults or had to sell them.  Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period: overuse of platinum; platinum and diamonds jewelry imitated lace; "lace translated into platinum and diamonds" milgraining négligée pendants- two drops of unequal length sautoir necklaces- long necklaces usually composed of pearls, with tassels on ends stars, ribbons, bows, garlands dog collar style choker necklaces jewels for hair Peridot was considered the "good luck stone" as popularized by King Edward bar pins Important People of the Time: Queen Alexandra Read More

Education & Advice

Worldwide Ring Sizer

Travelingcan be the best time to pick up some great jewelry for your collection.  Don't be caught off guard when figuring out your ring size in countries like England, Japan, Germany & France.  Here is a handy chart that gives you USA equivalents.  Just print and go!  Happy Travels and Treasure Hunting! courtesy of Kabiri Read More

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Education & Advice

Jewelry Time Periods: Art Nouveau Period

The Art Nouveau Period (1895-1915) was an uncontrived time, as it came about as an artistic revolt against all that was popular and commonplace of the 19th Century.  This time period did not last too long, but created many sought after collectibles, art, architecture and jewelry.  Focus was given to craftsmanship and creativity, since people felt things were becoming too industrial and imitative.   Ironically, the reason for its coming to be, became the time period's demise, after it became commercialized and cheaply copied. Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period: natural subjects: flowers, insects, birds curving, asymmetrical lines and designs female visage or silhouette with long, flowing hair enameling & plique à jour (stained glass effect) butterflies, dragonflies, swans, reptiles, snakes/serpents, orchids, irises, creepy/nightmarish things- bats, owls, vultures opals, amber, horn, ivory were often used; even glass...diamonds were used sparingly Important People of the Time: René Lalique- French designer, worked for Cartier, Boucheron, created pieces for Samuel Bing's Paris shop Maison de I'Art Nouveau Georges Fouquet Read More

Education & Advice

Jewelry Time Periods: Victorian Era

The Victorian Era of jewelry, a time of romanticism, begins around 1835 and ends around 1890. Queen Victoria was of whom this entire era was named after--she was not only the ruler of all England at the time, but a highly looked upon trendsetter, admired by everyone. Her marriage and wedding to Albert portrays many attributes of the time--Victoria was presented with an engagement ring that featured a snake with an emerald-set head (birthstones rather than diamonds were used in engagment rings, and snakes were a symbol of eternal love). Her wedding dress featured a large sapphire and diamond brooch, which was given to her from Albert the day before their wedding. With the death of Albert some 20 years later, this tragic event influenced the world of jewelry. Having Queen Victoria constantly wearing black, black enameling became very popular as well as jet beads. Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period: Hearts--jewelry was very sentimental anchors, snakes, crosses, birds, clasping hands, flowers Greek, Etruscan, Egyptian revival filigree work of gold--since gold was still limited lockets--which held photos or hair jet, black enameling--after Albert's death dragons, crescent moons, stars, butterflies, salamanders--late Victorian Era Important People of the Time: Carlo Giuliano Castellani Read More

Education & Advice

Jewelry Time Periods: Georgian Period

The Georgian Period extends roughly from 1714-1830, which includes the reigns of four English Kings named George. Jewelry during this time was all handmade by skilled artisans and pieces from this era are very rare today. It was a time of upheaval, with the French Revolution, American Revolution and Napoleonic Wars taking place.  Gold and diamonds were scarce during this time period, so alternatives like glass "paste" copies of diamonds were created as well as other white colored stones.  Garnets, pearls, and coral were used very often, while carving gemstoneswas very popular.  Women often worn bracelets in pairs and earrings were worn long with hair kept upswept.  Jeweled arm bands worn high on the arm were popular near the beginning of the time period, with a change to more delicate jewelry happening towards the end.    Some motifs and distinctive elements of this time period: Navette style rings Memento Mori jewelry--made from locks of hair of loved ones Ribbons/Bows--often having a pear-shaped gemstones Starburst and Flower brooches Cameos--carving shell, onyx, carnelian was very popular; Napoleon founded a carving school because he was so fond. Roman mosaics "Mille-Fiore"  taking semi-preicous stones and inlaying them in black onyx Ferronieres--were head ornaments worn with a jewel that sat on the forehead. It was a fad of short duration during the Georgian and Victorian eras. Once the style was over many pieces were remade into necklaces or bracelets. Crowned Heart design--symbolized the importance of love's rule over one's life. flowers, greek key, laurel leaves, scroll work, eagles, Egyptian symbols, urns and acorns Important People of the Time: Benedetto Pistrucci--talented carver of gemstones and cameos Robert Adam--his architecture work and designs influenced neo-classicism in jewelry arts Life during this time period was often short, due to poor sanitation, poor medicines with diseases spread easily/quickly.  The contrast of the small number of people who were rich and the many poor was very distinct--most people were never able to afford jewelry, but those few who did were extravagant and lived a life of luxury.  So, if you are lucky enough to own or purchase a piece of jewelry from the Georgian Era, it probably once belonged to someone very privileged. Read More